Ten Recommendations for Discovering Leros
Leros is a remarkable island in the Dodecanese island cluster in Greece, an island worth enough days of exploration to discover its most intriguing secrets. Leros has prospered touristically for the last twenty years, in a calm, well-organized way, especially after its mental institution closed. The island was united with Greece in 1948. Its rich history is evident in unique architectural characteristics such as the minimalist rationalistic architecture of the International Style, historic locations such as castles and Italian defensive fortifications, rich neoclassical mansions, and majestic churches. Leros has plenty of good beaches, and although they may not have the wealth of sand found in the Cyclades, you will find many idyllic secluded bays where you can swim in refreshing crystal-clear water. All the island’s settlements also offer very high quality accommodation and dining options.
Below, we present our ten favorite experiences from our time spent discovering the island’s beauty.
Στην συνέχεια παρουσιάζουμε τις δέκα καλύτερες εμπειρίες μας όπως τις ζήσαμε ανακαλύπτοντας τις ομορφιές του.
1. Lakki.
Lakki Bay is the largest natural port in the eastern Mediterranean. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that the Italians turned it into a powerful naval base during their occupation of the island (1912-43). The vast port ends at Lakki, which the Italians named “Porto Lago” when they built it (1930-1936) from scratch over drained marshes. Designed by architects Α. Bernaditti and R. Petracco, the town is a single rationalist architectural ensemble that combines Art Deco and Bauhaus characteristics as well as Venetian and Renaissance touches in all the buildings and basic infrastructure, offering a classic example of the International Architectural Style. Although the town of Lakki was classified as a traditional settlement in 1978, only a few buildings have been listed in the historical register since then, one of them being the old marketplace with the clock tower.
2. Agia Marina.
Agia Marina is the capital of the island, as well as its most important settlement. It includes Agia Marina, Platanos, and Pandeli. Since 1978 it has been characterized as a traditional settlement with many ancient, Byzantine and post-Byzantine monuments, as well as plenty of neoclassical buildings and houses. Architectural structures that stand out are the Castle of Pandeli, the fortress (or castle) of Bourtzi, some churches (especially the main one, Saint [Agia] Marina Church), the windmill overlooking the sea, and buildings such as the Malachieion kindergarten, the Nikolaideon girls’ school, and the Belleneion junior high school.
3. The Castle of Pandeli (Panteli, or Leros) or Castle of the Virgin Mary (Panagia).
A 10th or 11th century Byzantine castle at the top of the Pityki (or Apityki) hill. According to the gold-sealed edict of Emperor Alexios I Komnenos (Alexius Comnenus), in 1089 the castle was passed on to Saint Christodoulos, founder of the Monastery of Saint John the Theologian in Patmos. In 1314 Leros was given to the Knights of Saint John of Rhodes. (Their coat of arms can be found in various parts of the castle.) Since 1522, after the defeat of the knights by the Ottoman Turks, Leros and its castle remained in Ottoman possession until 1912. Then it was seized by the Italians, only to become Greek again in 1948. The history of the castle is associated with the Church of the Virgin Mary (Panagia), which was also constructed in the 11th century. Its gilded icon screen, majestic throne, and pulpit were created in 1745. The silver-plated miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary (Panagia) Odigitria dates back to 728 AD and is said to be the work of the Evangelist Luke. According to tradition, it was sent to Leros from Istanbul during the war on icons (Eikonomachia) in order to be preserved.
This bay is the busiest on the island. Located in the northeastern part of Leros, the bay ends at the seafront settlement of Alinda. The settlement is the most popular one on the island, with a beautiful 1-kilometer long beach and a coastline that extends almost 2.5 kilometers. Alinda has a wonderful view of the Castle of Pandeli (especially under the August moonlight), and also features many restaurants, hotels, cafés, bars, and shops for all tastes and preferences. The sights that stand out are the Bellenis Tower Museum, the Press Museum next to it, and the Leros War Cemetery.
Walking toward the northeastern side of the bay, you will see some of the prettiest, most popular beaches on Leros in picturesque natural surroundings. Dio Liskaria beach offers umbrellas and the most social opportunities. Two gorgeous, quieter sandy beaches are located on either side of the little church of the Virgin Mary (Panagia). They all feature turquoise water and tamarisk trees that provide natural shade.
5. Exploration of Lovely Kryfos Beach.
You can find the 1,500-meter path to this lovely beach beyond Vareladiko Studios, toward the northeastern end of Dio Liskaria Beach. At the beginning of the path you will see a wooden cross. The path has some basic markings in the form of piled-up stones, but caution is recommended, especially toward the end where it descends toward the beach with a steep slope and loose, slippery ground. The final descent to the beach passes through two interlocking stones. The walk will take you 35-45 minutes, but the view at the end will reward you for your effort. Kryfos Beach is white-pebbled and beautiful. Since it is difficult to reach, some get there by boat from the nearby beach of Dio Liskaria.
6. War Museum – Merikia Tunnel.
Four hundred meters north of Merikia Beach, you will see an imposing tunnel entrance on your left, along with other military exhibits. This is the old military tunnel that the Italians used for the production of war supplies. In 2004 it was restored and turned into a war museum. Its main exhibits come from the Battle of Leros (September 26 to November 12, 1943). This was a long battle that ended with the surrender of the Allied troops (British, Italians, and Greeks). 3000 British and 5000 Italian soldiers were captured, and the Nazis took control of the island and the strategic advantage it provided. The Germans were led by General Muller, who is known as the Butcher of Crete. This was the last WWII win for the Nazis in the eastern Mediterranean.
The War Museum is another interesting site that is relevant to the Battle of Leros. Consisting of the private collection Deposito di Guerra – Ioannis Paraponiaris, it is located in Agia Irini. The museum includes around 3000 objects, such as black and white photographs, weapons, shells, medals, landmines, old newspapers, parachutes, parts of fighter jets, and soldiers’ personal belongings (mostly from Leros’ history during World War II and the Battle of Leros).
7. Exploration of the Beaches Southwest of Lakki.
Beginning at the western end of the port in Lakki, we can find a lovely seaside route with natural beauty, beaches and other points of interest. It continues for 3 kilometers, until it reaches the beautiful Kokkini (Red) Beach, which gets its name from the red hue of the area’s dirt (Kokkina Homata). Shaded by tamarisks and pine trees, the beach is picturesque and sandy with tiny pebbles, next to light blue green water.
The first beach on the route is Koulouki, which we find right after the port’s last pier. At the next charming cove you will find the Koulouki café / pizzeria, which ends right where another beach used to be.
At the little bay after Café Koulouki, you will see the Nautical Club of Leros and its beach, a little sandy shore with light blue green water surrounded by pine trees.
An interesting attraction here is the wreck of a German landing craft. It is very close to the shore, and you can distinguish its outline. Leros has been called the Mecca of shipwrecks because it has many wrecks in shallow water, which makes it an ideal place for diving tourism. Most of the shipwrecks date back to the Battle of Leros in 1943.
Next, you will see the crowded beach of Merikia, which is the most popular spot on the route. It has a beach bar / café with good food (such as stuffed squid, fish soup, and meatballs in tomato sauce with rice). Ahead lies the sandy beach with pebbles. It is fairly wide, but with little sandy space in front of the water because of the space taken up by the café. At one edge of the beach there is a pier, after which the beach extends 400 meters to the west. Behind the beach there are ruins of storage buildings built by the Italians during their occupation of the island. Toward the north there is a road that reaches the fascinating war museum and military tunnel in 400 meters.
Between the beach of Merikia and the Kokkini (Red) Beach, in the small cove of Saint Spyridon, you will see a lovely white-pebbled beach. The little church of Saint Spyridon (Agios Spyridonas) is north of the beach.
8. Old Psychiatric Facility of Leros – Headquarters of the Italian Nautical Administration 1923-1943.
The headquarters of the island’s Italian Nautical Administration (1923-1943) was turned into a psychiatric facility for seriously ill patients by royal decree in 1957. In 1980 the hospital hosted more than 2000 patients, even though there were many complaints regarding their living conditions in both the Greek and international press. A substantial part of the local population worked with the facility, either directly or indirectly. In 2022 fewer than 200 patients were accommodated in independent, well-kept houses in personalized conditions, with staff assigned on a case-by-case basis. During the refugee wave (2015-2020), the old hospital facilities were used as temporary housing areas for refugees who were desperate enough to put up with the very poor conditions there. Today there is an organized closed structure for refugees in Xirokampos. This building used to be aviators’ sleeping quarters (Caserma Avieri).
9. Visits to the Northern and Southern Ends of the Island.
Visits to the northern and southern parts of the island are uniquely interesting. The exploration of the northern part begins at the bay of Partheni, northeast of the settlement of the same name. Then you will cross the peninsula of Agia Kioura and the bay of Blefoutis. Some noteworthy landmarks are the church of Saint (Agia) Kioura, the beach of the same name, and the beaches of Blefoutis Bay.
1200 meters north of Partheni you will find the church of Saint (Agia) Matrona or Kioura (an alternate form of Kyra, meaning lady). Built on the ruins of the older church, this 18th century church has been classified as a preserved building since 1982. One of the reasons it stands out is that its religious paintings were made by prisoners of the Partheni military camp during the dictatorship, in 1968.
A walkable dirt road begins at the little church of Saint (Agia) Matrona, north of Partheni. In 300 meters it leads to a very pretty little sandy beach with calm, shallow water. Two tamarisk trees provide natural shade, but make sure to get there early enough, because the beach attracts many people for its size.
South of Kioura and east of Partheni (by 1,500 meters), you will find the seaside settlement of Blefoutis with its gorgeous pebbly beach. The beach is fairly big (a 300 meter arc) and gets pretty crowded, since it has a restaurant and plenty of natural shade.
West of the airport, before Partheni, some interesting sights are the little church of Saint George (Agios Georgios) and the ruins of an ancient fort 200 meters from the church. Since 1948, the 11th-century Byzantine church has been officially listed as preserved. Ancient architectural elements were used for its construction, and it is possible that it was built on the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to Artemis (who was probably known there as Iocallis). The ruins of the ancient fort (Pyrgos) date back to the 3rd or 4th century B.C. Pyrgos is also known as the temple of Artemis Iocallis. In the archaeological site, surrounded by fortifying rocks, you will find an outdoor shrine.
The southern part of the island ends at the seaside settlement of Xirokampos and the bay of the same name. This is the southernmost settlement of the island, and you can spot the island of Kalymnos across from it, to the south. Xirokampos is located beneath the old Castle of Lepides (Paleokastro) and its Church of the Virgin Mary (Panagia), which is worth visiting. So is the Church of the Virgin Mary (Panagia) Kavouradaina on the northeastern edge of the bay. Xirokampos has one of biggest beaches on the island. It is shallow, quiet, and protected, with tiny pebbles and natural shade (as well as lots of seaweed in the sea). Above the beach you will find tavernas, bars, and rooms for rent.
10. Exploration of the Island’s Mountaintops and the Italian Defensive Positions.
During their occupation of the island (1912 – 1948), the Italians turned it into a powerful (mainly marine) military base, with many defensive posts on the island’s mountaintops. You can visit and explore interesting remains of these posts today. They are mainly accessible only by demanding dirt roads, and at some points a 4x4 is required.
An interesting 4x4 route southeast of Xirokampos involves climbing to the top of Skoumbardos Hill. The total distance is around 6 kilometers. You will pass little churches, quarries, antennas, and military tunnels, and most importantly you will enjoy an endless wonderful view in every direction. At the top of the hill, you will see military anti-aircraft tunnels made by the Italians during the time when they used the island as a large marine base (1923-43).
Twelve hundred meters east of Blefoutis, a dirt road leads to the area of Cape Asfouggaros. Here stood Italian Battery 899, and its administration building has been preserved. Its inscription reads “Siamo orgogliosi di occupare un posto di combattimento, di sacrifici e di dovere,” or “we are proud to occupy a position of battle, sacrifice and duty.”
There is a very interesting route that leads to the position of the mixed artillery Battery PL 906 of Mouplogourna, the base of the Italian anti-aircraft North Sector Command, on the hill of Diplogourna. The underground command areas can be found below the peak, dug into the rocky ground.
250 meters past the top of Diplogourna hill you will see the shelter of the same name. It is a little below Battery PL 906 of Mouplogourna, the base of the Italian anti-aircraft North Sector Command.
One of the many military positions the Italians built during their 35-year occupation of the Dodecanese islands is located across from the hill of the castle of the Virgin Mary (Panagia) at Apitiki, which is also the location of the anti-aircraft artillery Lago. This was one of the main attack points for the Germans during the battle of Leros (November 12-16, 1943). It ended with the Germans’ seizure of the island and the imprisonment of 3,000 British and 5,000 Italian soldiers.
