The Paths of Alonissos
A fairly extensive network of marked paths with a total length of 35 kilometers has been developed in Alonissos. It covers much of the island, except for its northern section, which is more difficult to hike and less accessible. (In the northern section, we have singled out the path from the small port of Gerakas to the cove of Tourkou Mnima, which is not included in the numbered paths, although it is marked.) The abundance of dense vegetation in some parts of the island makes the hiking experience more interesting, but in some places quite adventurous (especially after the snowfall of 2017 brought down many pine trees). Apart from the main paths, there are several other shorter ones that end up in equally exciting spots on the island. These include the path that connects Steni Vala with the beautiful cove of Agios Petros and its idyllic beach, and the paths leading to the splendid beaches of Spartines.
Below we summarize the highlights of these numbered paths based on our experience.
Path 1: Chora (Alonissos) – Mikros Mourtias Beach
Path One (1) starts in Chora, which is also called Hora, Alonissos, and the Old Town, after the church of Saint Dimitrios. This old cobblestone path ends at the beautiful beach of Mikros Mourtias after about 1,000 meters and 20 minutes. It is a passable route with lovely sea views.
Path 2: Chora (Alonissos) – Peak of Kalovoulos Mountain
Path Two (2) is passable, well-marked, and easy to follow. Covering 180 meters of altitude difference, this is a tiring but enjoyable climb to the top of Kalovoulos Mountain, west of Chora. From Chora, after the settlement’s cemetery, we head toward Mikros Mourtias. At the beginning of the road, we will see a sign on our right that points toward Kalovoulos. The total route is 1,600 meters long, and it takes less than 45 minutes. From the halfway point onward, there is a gorgeous panoramic view of Chora behind us. Once we get to the stone ruins, we follow the red markers to the right for another 100 meters to reach the top (325 meters altitude). There we will also find the typical cement triangulation pillar. A little lower, to our left (to the west), there is a square wooden gazebo (one of many on the island) with a bench, table, and beautiful view looking west toward Skopelos. The best time for the ascent is one hour before sunset.
Path 3: Chora – Vrysitsa Beach
Vrysitsa Beach is located in the southwestern part of the island, north of Chora (Alonissos). We can get to it by taking a 1,500 meter dirt road that starts just after the threshing floors. The last 150 meters of the road are not in good condition; care is required there. The beach is quiet, with dark sand and pebbles, but it is quite neglected and not very clean. Path Three (3), which starts in Chora, below Villa Alonia, also leads to this beach. Rough at first (as it is not used frequently and has been overgrown with weeds in some places), the path continues for about 500 meters and then meets the dirt road that comes from Chora, ending up at the beach in another 300 meters. Total walk: 25 minutes.
Path 4: Patitiri – Chora (Alonissos)
Path 4 follows the route of the old cobbled path (which we can still see at several points) that links Patitiri and Chora. Although uphill, the route is easy, pleasant, and well marked with signs pointing to Chora or Patitiri (depending on which way you are going). It is 2,400 meters long, and it takes 50 or 60 minutes.
Path 5: Raches – Church of the Saints Anargyri
A passable 4,500 meter path that starts in the Raches area northwest of Milia reaches the Tourkoneri and Megali Ammos beaches, while its second leg, near the southernmost beach in Tourkoneri, climbs to the left toward the church of the Saints Anargyri, with its beautiful view (especially at sunset). Total hiking time: 120 minutes.
Path 6: Church of Saint Constantine – Megalo Chorafi
Heading north on the main road that leads to Gerakas, 100 meters before the turnoff for Steni Vala on our right, we will see a dirt road going downhill to the left. This road continues to the north for 900 meters, then ends up at the dirt road called Path Six, which leads us to Megalo Chorafi, Kokkini Agortza, and the church of Saint Constantine. Megalo Chorafi is 1,300 meters from the point where the two roads meet (a total of 50 minutes’ hike), and from there the church of Saint Constantine is another 3,500 meters farther north. Megalo Chorafi is the starting point of four paths (six, seven, eight and fourteen).
Path 7: Megalo Chorafi - Makrys Kavos
Walking 2,900 meters down the dirt road from Raches, from the point where the road forks off toward Megali Ammos and Megalo Chorafi, and 1,100 meters from the point where we found Path Eight (between Chondros and Makrys Kavos), we will see on our right a sign for Megalo Chorafi, with the beginning of Path Seven (7) lost in the dense pine forest. The path is about 2 kilometers long, and at points it is very rough because of the dense vegetation and the fallen trees, as well as the narrowness of some parts of it. Due to the altitude difference (95 meters at this point here), it is better to start your hike from Megalo Chorafi (350 meters).
Path 8: Megalo Chorafi - Kastraki
Heading down the dirt road from Raches, 1,800 meters from the point where the road forks off toward Megali Ammos and Megalo Chorafi, we will see on our right one of the island’s square wooden gazebos. Next to the gazebo, where signs point toward Megalo Chorafi, Path Eight (8) begins. About 2 kilometers long (taking 50 to 60 minutes to hike), it is very rough at some points because of dense vegetation and fallen trees. In the first 500 meters, we can see on our left ruins of the old fortifications that inspired the area’s name, Kastraki (which means small fortress or castle). Due to the altitude difference (from 90 meters to 350 meters above sea level), it is better to start your hike in Megalo Chorafi and head downhill.
Heading north on the main road that leads to Gerakas, 800 meters before the turnoff to the right for Kalamakia and Agios Dimitrios, in the area of Remata, we will see on the right a blue sign for the path that includes the characteristic yellow-orange square containing the number nine (9). The fairly passable Path 9 begins here, initially descending through dense vegetation and leading to the settlement of Isomata and then to the white pebbly beach of Leftos Gialos. Total length: 2,200 meters; estimated time: 45 minutes.
Path 10: Isomata – Agios Petros
Heading north on the main road that leads to Gerakas, we turn right toward Steni Vala exactly 3 kilometers from the junction for Chrisi Milia. 300 meters after we turn, we will see a dirt road heading off to the right, while the road to Steni Vala continues straight ahead. We can turn right onto the passable dirt road to take the long way around to Steni Vala, passing a few houses in the area of Isomata or Isiomata (which is as flat as necessary to justify its name, which means “flat”), running into Path 10, and visiting Agios Petros and its beautiful beach before arriving at Steni Vala. Along with Path 9 (which starts from Remata), this part of Path 10 explores the areas of Remata, Isomata, and Agios Petros. Very short (1,000 meters) and easy, Path 10 connects Isomata with Agios Petros.
Path 11: Kastanorema – Agios Dimitrios
From the beach of Agios Dimitrios, we follow the road up the hill, but instead of turning left on the way back, we turn right onto the dirt road. We proceed for 300 meters until we see a yellow marker for Path 11 on our left. There, a rough trail climbs steeply on the rock with built-in stairs. The path starts at the water reservoir a few meters before the dam and heads south for 1,500 meters until it arrives here. Downhill and passable, it offers a very beautiful view of the sea and the island of Peristera.
Path 12: Church of Saint George – Church of Saint Constantine
Heading north on the main road to Gerakas, 900 meters before the intersection on the right for the island’s artificial lake (reservoir), we will see on our left a plateau with a square wooden gazebo (and a beautiful view of the island of Peristera). A few meters farther along, we can find the church of Saint George (Agios Georgios) on the left. To the west, we will see a wide uphill trail with a sign for Megalo Chorafi (an area whose name means Large Field). This path heads southwest for 2,700 meters and ends up at the dirt road which terminates 100 meters later at Psili Rachi. If we walk 600 meters on the northeast path from Psili Rachi, we will arrive at the little church of Saint Constantine (Agios Konstantinos). If we head south, we will take Path Six (6) to Megalo Chorafi, which is 3,000 meters away.
Path 13: Melegakia – Church of Saint Constantine
Path Thirteen (13) will lead us to the church of Saint Constantine (Agios Konstantinos) in Psili Rachi. From its starting point, the path heads northeast, passing the church of Saint Constantine (Agios Konstantinos) and Xouria, then ends in Melegakia (after 3,600 meters). The church is 600 meters from the beginning of the path. The route is in moderate to poor shape, really a dirt road rather than a footpath.
Path 14: Megalo Chorafi – Agalou Lakka Beach
4,500 meters from the junction for Megali Ammos and Megalo Chorafi on the dirt road from Raches, and 1,600 meters from the point where we encountered path seven (with Agalou Lakka Beach to our west), we will see a sign for Megalo Chorafi on our right, by the beginning of Path Fourteen (14). The trail is about 2 kilometers long, and more passable and less hindered by vegetation than Paths 7 and 8. Due to the change in altitude (27 meters above sea level at this point here), it is easier to start from Megalo Chorafi (350 meters altitude) and head downhill.
Path 15: Kastanorema – Strovili Beach – Mourtitsa Beach
Path Fifteen (15) begins behind the building by the water reservoir dam. The path passes through the Kastanorema Gorge, and after approximately 3.5 kilometers and 100 minutes of demanding walking ends up at Strovili Beach. It is the most difficult of the 16 trails on the island.
Path 16: Mikros Mourtias - Cape Kokkinos
Path Sixteen (16) starts at the beach of Mikros Mourtias, continues along the coastline to the southwest edge of the island, and ends at Cape (Akrotiri) Kokkinos with its beautiful lighthouse. Although it seems easy, the route requires attention, because at some points the trail is easily lost, and you can get entangled in the vegetation. Also, you must carefully walk across sharp white rocks to reach the lighthouse. That is why the 1,000 meters will take 25 to 30 minutes. Of course, the final result will reward you with the beauty of images that you will remember for a lifetime. (The best time to go is a little before sunset, so you can get back to Mikros Mourtias before dark.)
